At Milan Fashion Week, Donghai’s crystal-studded press-ons showcased how nail art is evolving into a form of collectible craftsmanship.
Press-on nails are usually associated with convenience: apply them, wear them and move on. But at Milan Fashion Week, a collection from Donghai County in China’s Jiangsu Province offered a very different proposition. Here, artificial nails were treated as tiny canvases for elaborate craftsmanship, combining beauty with techniques such as crystal carving, filigree, enamel work and hand painting.
The designs were presented at a special event held alongside Milan Fashion Week, where an Italian model showcased translucent nails in shades of green, finished with green tourmaline stones. Some of the more intricate sets displayed at the event are priced at several thousand US dollars, placing them far beyond the conventional press-on category.
Much of their appeal lies in the handwork. Li Xiao, general manager of Jiangsu Jingyiyi Supply Chain Management Co., Ltd., explained that painting, carving and setting crystals allow individual makers to leave their own artistic imprint on each piece. Traditional methods such as filigree are also being adapted to the miniature scale of nail design, creating a product that combines contemporary beauty with established craft techniques.
A hand-painted Sun Wukong set became one of the event’s early talking points. An Italian tour guide who spotted the design during the first day placed an advance order. Its subject also carries a strong connection to Donghai: the county is associated with Huaguo Mountain, the legendary home of the Monkey King. Li said the character’s popularity outside China gives the design an added cross-cultural appeal.
The nails are also designed to be kept rather than discarded. They can be removed, stored and worn again, giving the elaborate pieces a longer life than conventional disposable press-ons.
That longevity is reflected in their pricing. Hand-painted designs can range from several hundred RMB to several thousand US dollars. One set inspired by the Chinese painting A Thousand Li of Rivers and Mountains has been priced at US$2,000, while some buyers are beginning to regard such pieces as collectibles.
The category has grown from a relatively recent experiment. Around 2019, investors began exploring the use of small crystal stones on artificial nails, helping establish a specialised industry in Donghai, a region known for its crystal resources and recognised as a World Craft City for Crystal.
The sector has since expanded rapidly. According to the county government, Donghai is now China’s largest production centre for press-on nails, with its products reaching more than 30 countries and regions.
For Italian fashion blogger Katerina Kutsak, the designs offered something relatively unfamiliar in Italy, particularly in their use of Chinese cultural imagery. In Milan, that unfamiliarity became part of their appeal, putting Donghai’s craft-driven approach to nail art on an international fashion stage.
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