What is changing in the Indian Beauty Business?
Sandhya Chipalkatti (SC): What has changed with women’s beauty choices over the years?
Vipul Chaturvedi:
India is a very large country and there are many different cohorts of women. But, broadly, 20 years ago skin had to be fair and lovely which was then the be all and end all of skincare. Thankfully, today women believe ‘I can be beautiful….I can be the best version of myself…there’s no one definition of beauty’.
Now skin care is about healthy, flawless and glowing skin. They want a product that is rooted in nature. Obviously, today it should be presented as an ubtan face wash or jojoba oil cream. Or then it has to be really backed by science… niacinamide, hyaluronic acid etc. These were all alien terms once, but today 16 or 18 year olds actually talk about it.
The third thing is hyperpersonalization. This is where beauty services have a role to play and so is the case with technology. How to use VR to know what is right for one person and not right for another? We are at the right time and right place, and it is our combined responsibility as a beauty player to give women services that make them feel better. If you look better, you feel better.
This is the change that has happened over a period of time in Indian beauty and this will continue. Consumers will keep looking for brands celebrating diversity (don’t typecast me) and authentic narratives.
SC: What is changing in skincare?
Samir Srivastav:
There is a lot of consumption in skincare globally. India is picking up to that kind of consumption now. Due to social media platforms like Instagram, many trends are going viral. But, if you don’t introduce skincare or services that are relevant for your customer’s skin type, and market need, these trends won’t last long.
For example, we recently launched an Anti-pollution Facial service in Mumbai as it was really the need of the hour with the increased pollution. The response has been very encouraging. As long as you create services personalized to a skin type, keeping the market need in mind, it should work for your customer, and for every Indian consumer.
SC: What are your thoughts on how the skincare industry is transforming?
Komal Puri:
There has been a significant growth in the skincare industry after Covid. Today’s consumer doesn’t come for skin treatments for mere relaxation – they are aware of their skin problems, need quick but long-lasting solutions and are willing to pay a premium for that. Some are willing to go to a dermatologist, but if salons offer the same kind of treatments, they will come to us!
Moreover, today’s consumer is not scared of tools and equipment. Earlier, they didn’t want to do peels and microneedling, but now they are completely open…in fact, Hydrafacial is in trend today. Consumers want advanced services and at the salon level.
Another growth area is the men’s services. Increasingly men are becoming aware of skin health, skincare products and ingredients, and this is the right time to grow men’s services. They want mani-pedis, a 60 min facial and want a homecare regimen as well. So, these are the 3 growth areas -, advanced services, services with tools and men’ s services.
SC: So, what is trending in consumer products?
Vipul Chaturvedi:
Trends are changing very rapidly. But research shows 3 major trends expected to boom are ‘Natural’ (a big trend but origin matters), so services created around that should be popular. The second is that ‘Hero ingredient’ is becoming very big in products and services too. These hero ingredients can change rapidly, so the industry must remain on-trend to keep pace. 3rd, ‘Anti-ageing’ or delaying signs of ageing is a global trend. So, hydration, sun protection related products and services are relevant today and for a long time.
Among other trends are ‘Hairfall’ and ‘Nails’, both of which have a big potential for salons.
SC: What are the beauty services currently in trend?
Samir Srivastav:
In beauty threading, cleanup, blackhead removal and waxing are always needed and in trend. Beauty services are the most popular. Anti-tan, de-tan services you can do on a weekly basis, and customers will come repeatedly for detan and cleanup.
Besides the face, the second most popular services are manicure and pedicure. This is a very popular service that is available from a range of Rs 800 to Rs. 2000…we do 25000 in a month across all our salons Waxing too is also popular. Hair and face is the most popular service. One new trend that is rapidly growing is nail services. Our responsibility is to educate the consumer for a result-oriented service.
SC: What are your thoughts on the trend of hyper customization?
Komal Puri:
Dermalogica was built on the concept of customisation from its inception. Hypercustomization is important because it allows you to treat each customer according to their skin type and need, and use your expertise there.
Monodose service can be done by anyone, but true service is when you customize it to give the best results. Loyalty will increase and they will keep coming back. Hyper customisation has come into products too e.g. our product – the Smart Response Serum has ingredients which can act on different parts of a face to address different needs – like pigmentation, acne etc.
This trend is going to be very big going forward.
SC: Lakme has always been a ladies Salon and now it’s for her and him. So what are you doing to make the men happy?
Vipul Chaturvedi:
As we know, one of the trends that is exploding is ‘men’. Salons can experience major growth in this category in the coming years. Do not sell the same thing for men and women because the requirement is quite different not only from the skin point of view but also how they approach things. Broadly, without typecasting, if a lady is spending Rs.2000 she wants a 1 hour service. Most men would be happywith a 15 mins express service which gives them results.
SC: What are the key challeng you faced as a Beauty Business?
Komal Puri:
More than a challenge – it was an opportunity. When you enter a salon you always have the hair section up-front, and skin rooms are right at the back. All the entrance branding too is hair related, so skin had no visibility.
As Dermalogica, it has been our attempt from the last 5 years to bring awareness of skin services right from before clients enter the salon, and at every point where the client is e.g. lobby, reception, hair station etc.. This way, you promote skin services to those 80% clients not taking them.
Please do this – 100% of your clients will become aware of your skin services. The other important thing is to make your skin therapist a hero like your hairdresser. This will give them the confidence to go up to a client and assure them that they can deliver the best skincare services to them.
SC: How big is the role of an influencer?
Samir Srivastav:
Influencer is a trend that will exist in the industry. I will definitely see what the influencer is doing. How many are her followers, how many likes do they get. I would rather believe in someone who is known to me. In the beauty business, the maturity of influencers is questionable because a 19 or 20 year old is also talking about anti-ageing services. She is talking of A category services, doing B category services and using supermarket shampoos. There is a bit of confusion here.
There are very few genuine influencers that are there and we should respect them for their work. As brands we should not chase them, but work with what is relevant to you. Your ideal influencer could be your own client, your staff…even you yourself!
SC: How can we create a culture of excellence in beauty?
Samir Srivastav:
India has a lot of good Indian skincare brands but vey few International ones, unlike in Hair. India needs the presence of more international players of long lineage in Skin who can bring a 360 degree offering e.g. Education, Marketing, Competition, Consumer Promotions. That will make a difference.
Vipul Chaturvedi:
Agree! A lot of work has to be done by big brands like Dermalogica and others to create the market. But, today’s consumer is very aware and knows a lot about themselves. They will come to you if they believe you know much more than them. So, ensure you are continuously upskilling yourself and your team. Take care of your people from the capability and compensation point of view and connect point of view, they will take care of the customer. This category is only going to grow.
Komal Puri:
Constant education and upgrading your skills is the answer. Secondly, choose your partners carefully. Whose products research based, verified with proven results. Because if something happens to skin the customer is not going to return. This partner can give you a continuous supply of products , marketing, education and support.
